DARTS - PATTERN PLOT AND MANIPULATION - BND_PPM

DART MANIPUALATION

PATTERN PLOT AND MANIPULATION [BND_PPM - pg. 81]

Textbook: Patternmaking for Fashion Design [Fourth Ed.] by Helen Joseph Armstrong

Open the MS-BO-BACK.PDS SLOPER TEMPLATE FILE - DOWNLOAD HERE

OptiTex FUNCTIONS used for this dart modification:

Left mouse click and drag a guideline from the vertical RULER and place it over over the HBL [Horizontal Balance Line] mark point on the CB

Make a point midway on the neck contour.
TOOLBOX>POINTS & NOTCHES>POINT ON CONTOUR [proportion .5]

Go to TOOLBOX>CONTOUR>DRAFT and draft a line from mid neck point on a desired angle to the HBL line and to the dart leg of the shoulder. [see pg. 81]

Make a mark point 3" down on the line from the neck.
TOOLBOX>POINTS & NOTCHES>POINT ON CONTOUR [absolute 3"]

Go to TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS and select the DART TOOL.
Hold down the ALT key and select the shoulder dart tip.
Select the rotational center on HBL line [type 1.35 in submenu].
Select the mid neck point for the new NECK DART location and the select the shoulder dart leg nearest to the neck [A] to rotate and close 100% of shoulder dart tinto the new NECK DART location in the neck contour.

To reset the dart tip go to TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS and select the DART TOOL [do not press ALT].
Select new neck dart tip and move over to 3" mark point on the neck draft line. Submenu shift type - center of dart only
Use the SELECT TOOL to select and delete the closed shoulder dart and the draft lines.

Left mouse click on text and select ATTRIBUTES and chance the PIECE NAME to BND_PPM

To fix the dart legs go to TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS and select the FIX DART TOOL and check Average first and second dart legs.

Go to TOOLBOX>UPDATE PIECES> SAVE ACTIVE AS NEW