SINGLE DART STEP BY STEP SERIES
MID ARMHOLE DART [MAD - pg. 78]
The mid armhole dart is located by the armhole notch [pg. 67]
 Textbook: Patternmaking for Fashion Design [Fourth Ed.] by Helen Joseph Armstrong
Open the MS_BO_FRT.PDS SLOPER TEMPLATE FILE - DOWNLOAD HERE
 
OptiTex FUNCTIONS used for this dart modification:
 

  • Go to TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS and select the DART TOOL.
  • Hold down the ALT key and select the existing dart tip
  • Select the rotational center on dart line - bust point [type .5 in submenu].
  • Select mid armhole point [MAD] on the armhole notch on the armhole contour as new location to move dart
  • Select point for rotation - dart leg nearest to SS
  • Rotate dart leg point nearest to SS over to the second dart leg - to shift the entire dart over towards the CFW.
  • 100% of waist dart is now shifted over to the mid armhole location on the armhole contour.
  • Select original dart
  • Press delete key to delete it.
  • You need to move the dart tip .5 inch away from the bust point.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS and select the DART TOOL.
  • DO NOT HOLD DOWN the ALT key this time and select the existing dart tip - drag it to the BUST POINT to check the distance in the SHIFT DART pop up submenu and determine how much you need to move the point closer or farther away. [NOTE: example above the distance was .28 - it was modified in image below below to -.22]
  • In the SHIFT DART submenu type in a number to add or minus the current distance to adjust the final distance to .5 from the dart tip to the BUST POINT.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>GENERAL>MEASURE or just press CTRL-D and check the distance to make sure the dart tip is .5 inch away from the bust point.
  • CTRL-HOME to reset piece in window.
  • Adjust BASELINE [only if you need to]
    Go to TOOLBOX>BASELINE>BASELINE DIRECTION
    click on two [left/right] CF line points to reset baseline.
  • Right mouse click on piece - under the attributes rename the PIECE - MID ARMHOLE DART, piece DESCRIPTION - MAD and modify the angle to 0 to realign the text.
  • You can go to TOOLBOX>MOVEMENT>MOVE INTERNAL to place the baseline where you want it.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>UPDATE PIECES> SAVE ACTIVE AS NEW>
    Go to FILE > SAVE to save your work
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