DART MANIPULATION
BACK SHOULDER DART MULTIDESPERSION [SDMD - pg. 80-81]
 Textbook: Patternmaking for Fashion Design [Fourth Ed.] by Helen Joseph Armstrong
Open the MS-BO-BACK.PDS SLOPER TEMPLATE FILE - DOWNLOAD HERE
 
 OptiTex FUNCTIONS used for this modification:
 
  • Left mouse click and drag a guideline from the vertical RULER and place it over over the HBL [Horizontal Balance Line] mark point on the CB
  • Go to TOOLBOX>CONTOUR>CREATE A PARALLEL
  • Select the CB point and the neck/shoulder point
    Distance on Contour - 2" from frst point [extend first & last point] - ok
    Create a point on snapped contour to? Yes
    Do you want to create a point connection? Yes
  • 2" parallel line created, now you need to build a new neck facing piece.
  • TOOLBOX>BUILD & CUT>BUILD PIECE> left mouse click 2 times in facing area to create a piece.
  • Use selection arrow to move piece away from back.
  • Select MS-BO-BK and press CTRL-HOME.
  • You need to equally distribute the shoulder dart to the center neck, the current shoulder dart location and the armhole point where the HBL line crosses the armhole contour.
  • Make a point midway on the neck contour to mark the first EASE location.
    TOOLBOX>POINTS & NOTCHES>POINT ON CONTOUR [.5 in proportion]
  • Go to TOOLBOX>POINTS & NOTCHES and place a POINT ON CONTOUR [for EASE] on the Armhole where the GUIDLINE crosses it. [2.45 absolute - previous point]
  • Go to TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS and select the DART TOOL.
  • Hold down the ALT key and select the shoulder dart tip.
  • Select the rotational center on HBL line [type 1.35 in submenu].
  • Select the mid neck point for the first new EASE location and the select the shoulder dart leg nearest to the neck [A] to rotate 33.33% of shoulder dart towards [B] into the new EASE location in the neck contour.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS and select the DART TOOL.
  • Hold down the ALT key and select the shoulder dart tip.
  • Select the rotational center on HBL line [type 1.35 in submenu].
  • Select the armhole EASE point for the new EASE location and the select the SAME POINT [A] to rotate and open 50% of shoulder dart [ shift towards the armhole/shoulder point] into the new EASE location in the neck contour.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>POINTS & NOTCHES and place a point on shoulder contour [that you will add a notch to] 1" from neck and another 1" from shoulder.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>POINTS & NOTCHES>NOTCH ON POINT [add notch to each 1" mark point and set the notch angle to 90 degrees.
  • Right mouse click on the text and change the DESCRIPTION to MULTIDESPERSION
  • Go to TOOLBOX>UPDATE PIECES> SAVE ACTIVE AS NEW
  • Place the MULTIDESPERSION back bodice and back facing on desktop work area.
  • Right mouse click on back neck facing text and change the CODE to SLOPER and the DESCRIPTION to BK FACING, change the ANGLE to 0 and check the CENTERED Box.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>UPDATE PIECES> REFRESH OLD for facing
  • Save your file
[NOTE: If you select and delete the three EASE darts you created - the distributed EASE will remain on the piece.]
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