TWO DART STEP BY STEP SERIES
WAIST & SIDE DART [WSD - pg. 85-86]
 Textbook: Patternmaking for Fashion Design [Fourth Ed.] by Helen Joseph Armstrong
Open the MS_BO_FRT.PDS SLOPER TEMPLATE FILE - DOWNLOAD HERE
 
OptiTex FUNCTIONS used for this dart modification:
 
  • Left mouse click and drag a guideline from the vertical RULER and place it over the bust point to mark the side dart location.
  • Left mouse click and drag a second guideline from the vertical RULER and place it over the CF waist point.

  • Go to TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS and select the DART TOOL.
  • Hold down the ALT key and select the existing dart tip
  • Select the rotational center on dart line - bust point [type .5 in submenu].
  • Select side dart location [where guideline crosses SS] as the new location to move dart.
  • When the sub menu pops up adjust the location field for the dart opening.
  • Select point for rotation [B] - waist dart leg nearest to SS
  • Rotate and close waist dart leg point [B] nearest to SS [shifting towards the CFW] until point X touches the guideline.
  • The pivot dart sub menu pops up adjust amount to 50%.
  • 50% of waist dart is now shifted over to the side seam location on the SS.
  • You should have two darts [waist and side seam] equally distributed.
  • You need to move the waist dart tip .75 inch away from the bust point
  • Go to TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS and select the DART TOOL.
  • DO NOT HOLD DOWN the ALT key this time and select the existing dart tip - drag it to the BUST POINT to check the distance in the SHIFT DART pop up submenu and determine how much you need to move the point closer or farther away. [NOTE: example above the distance was .51 - it was modified in image below below to -.24]
  • In the SHIFT DART submenu type in a number to add or minus the current distance to adjust the final distance to .75 from the dart tip to the BUST POINT.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>GENERAL>MEASURE or just press CTRL-D and check the distance to make sure the dart tip is .75 inch away from the bust point.
  • CTRL-HOME to reset piece in window.
  • You need to move the side seam dart tip 1.25 inch away from the bust point.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS and select the DART TOOL.
  • DO NOT HOLD DOWN the ALT key this time and select the existing dart tip - drag it to the BUST POINT to check the distance in the SHIFT DART pop up submenu and determine how much you need to move the point closer or farther away. [NOTE: example above the distance was .33 - it was modified in image below below to -.91]
  • Go to TOOLBOX>GENERAL>MEASURE or just press CTRL-D and check the distance to make sure the dart tip is 1.25 inch away from the bust point.
  • CTRL-HOME to reset piece in window..
Then go to TOOLBOX>DART> select side seam dart center and adjust it [closer or farther away] so that it is 1.25 from bust point - when submenu appears type in correct amount based on your previous measurement.
  • Adjust BASELINE
    Go to TOOLBOX>BASELINE>BASELINE DIRECTION
    click on two [left/right] CF line points to reset baseline.
  • Right mouse click on piece - under the attributes rename the PIECE - WAIST & SIDE DART, the piece DESCRIPTION - WSD and modify the angle to 0 to realign the text.
  • You can go to TOOLBOX>MOVEMENT>MOVE INTERNAL to place the baseline where you want it.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>UPDATE PIECES> SAVE ACTIVE AS NEW>
    Go to FILE > SAVE to save your work
 
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