SLEEVES
DARTLESS SLEEVE PATTERN [DSP - pg. 313]
 Textbook: Patternmaking for Fashion Design [Fourth Ed.] by Helen Joseph Armstrong
These tutorials are general guides for developing patterns using the OptiTex PDS application.
 
 OptiTex FUNCTIONS used for this modification:
 
The dartless sleeve is different from the basic sleeve pattern sloper. You will notice that it does not have the elbow dart and does not have the taper at the bottom. The basic sleeve sloper can be used to develop the dartless sleeve sloper.

The dartless sleeve pattern sloper can be used to develop bishop, bell and flare sleeve patterns. Fullness can be added in the sleeve cap or hem. Sleeves that do not require an elbow dart can be developed from this sloper.
  • Drag out horizontal and vertical guidlines as illustrated on page 313 in text.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>BULID & CUT> BUILD PIECE
    Left mouse click in the sleeve and inside the closed areas of the guidelines as illustrated.
  • Left click one final time to complete new piece.
  • Move the new FULL DARTLESS SLEEVE piece away from the old piece and select old piece and remove it from the workarea.
  • Select new FULL DARTLESS SLEEVE piece and press CTRL-HOME to center it on the work area. Now you are going to make a HALF DARTLESS SLEEVE piece that you can place on a fold.
  • Drag down several horizontal guidlines are illustrated above in in text.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>BULID & CUT> BUILD PIECE
  • Left mouse click in the back sleeve half area inside the guidelines as illustrated.
  • If you are going to use a half sleeve piece [to place on a fold] you need to duplicate the front underarn contour from the front notch to the underarm/ss point.
  • Go to MENU>TOOLS>SEGMENT EDITOR
  • Select the front underarn contour from the front notch to the underarm/ss point.
  • Select COPY on the SEGMENT EDITOR
  • Select FLIP Y on the SEGMENT EDITOR
  • While still in the SEGMENT EDITOR select the underarm/ss point to the underarm notch points on the new HALF SLEEVE piece and click on INTERNAL in the SEGMENT EDITOR.
  • Your front underarm countour should be placed there as an internal.
  • You can go to TOOLBOX>POINTS & NOTCHES>MOVE POINT to blend the point into the underarm contour by the notches.
  • Right mouse click on the FULL DARTLESS SLEEVE [FDS] and the DARTLESS HALF SLEEVE [DHS] and rename the piece and the DESCRIPTION.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>UPDATE PIECES> REFRESH OLD
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