SLEEVES
LANTERN SLEEVES [LS - pg. 321-322]
 Textbook: Patternmaking for Fashion Design [Fourth Ed.] by Helen Joseph Armstrong
These tutorials are general guides for developing patterns using the OptiTex PDS application.
 
 OptiTex FUNCTIONS used for this modification:
 
  • Bring the DARTLESS FULL SLEEVE on to the workarea. Make sure the are no points on the hem. You can go to VIEW>CONTOUR POINT to make sure the points are visable - if there are points on the hem - SELECT them and hit the DELETE key.
  • Make a point midway on the neck contour.
    TOOLBOX>CONTOUR>DRAFT and create an internal line from denter hem to sleeve cap. Select a point in the center of the hem [.50 proportion] and a second point on the center sleeve cap - right mouse click to end drafting.
  • Page 321 of the text states that you "need to mark one half of the around hand measurement, less 1/2 inch from each side of the garin at hemline." 2.5 inches are used for this example. Go to TOOLBOX>MOVEMENT>MOVE ALONG and move first hem point 2.5 inches toward center line.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>MOVEMENT>MOVE ALONG and move first hem point 2.5 inches toward center line.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>CONTOUR>CREATE PARALLEL and create an internal styleline 6 inches up from the hemline as illustrated on page 321.
  • Snap styleline points to the piece contours.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>BUILD & CUT>BUILD PIECE and build the lower LANTERN PIECE.
  • Before you move the LOWER LANTERN PIECE away go to TOOLBOX>CONTOUR>DRAFT and draft a new center internal line.
  • Move the LOWER LANTERN PIECE away and go to TOOLBOX>BUILD & CUT>BUILD PIECE and build the UPPER LANTERN PIECE.
  • Move the UPPER LANTERN PIECE away.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>MOVEMENT>MOVE ALONG and move the point on the internal center line 6 inches shorter.
  • Go to MENU>TOOLS>FULLNESS>MULTI FULLNESS Select the UPPER LANTERN PIECE hem and set the fullness number to 7 and the width to 1.
  • You can see the modification because the Track Lines are on. . Go to MENU>TOOLS>FULLNESS>MULTI FULLNESS Select the wider portion of the LOWER LANTERN PIECE and set the fullness number to 7 and the width to 1.
  • Now the BASELINE needs adjustment. Go to TOOLBOX>BASELINE>BASELINE DIRECTION and select the center line on the UPPER LANTERN PIECE. Repeat for the LOWER LANTERN PIECE.
  • TOOLBOX>BASELINE>ROTATE TO BASELINE and click on the lower and upper lantern pieces.
  • Rename the pieces to LANTERN LOWER with description set to LL and the other piece to LANTERN UPPER and the description set to LU.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>UPDATE PIECES>REFRESH OLD
 
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