SLEEVES
ROLL UP CUFF [RUC - pg. 311]
 Textbook: Patternmaking for Fashion Design [Fourth Ed.] by Helen Joseph Armstrong
These tutorials are general guides for developing patterns using the OptiTex PDS application.
 
 OptiTex FUNCTIONS used for this modification:
  • Before you start go to TOOLS>TRACK LINES and check TRACK LINES AND SHOW TRACK LINES so that you can see your modifications.
  • Bring down the short sleeve sloper. Press CTRL-d - measure the SS- you are going to add 4.5 " to the sleeve length to create a roll-up cuff as illustrated on page 311.
  • Go to TOOLBOX>CONTOUR>EXTEND PARALLEL
    select hem points and add 1.5 " to the sleeve length
  • TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS>PLEAT
    click on bottom point first - then the top.Mark 1.5 " from each hem point.
  • TOOLBOX>DARTS & PLEATS>PLEAT
    click on bottom point first - then the top. Mark 1.5 " from each hem point.
  • 1.5 " depth - CW knife pleat - click OK
  • The result above. You need to extend the hem /ss points as illustrated in the text on page 311.
  • TOOLBOX>MOVEMENT>ALIGN HORIZONTAL
    Select reference point and hem/ss point. Repeat for each hem/ss to align pleat fold lines. [top point modified above]
  • TOOLBOX>MOVEMENT>ALIGN HORIZONTAL
    Select reference point and hem/ss point. Repeat for each hem/ss to align pleat fold lines. [bottom point modified above]
  • Right mouse click on piece and rename the piece ROLL UP CUFF, change the DESCRIPTION or RUC.
  • TOOLBOX>UPDATE PIECES>SAVE ACTIVE AS NEW
Back to SLEEVES